We just got back from a trip up to Maine. I’m always so slow to write trip recaps, so here are some highlights…
Eating lots of seafood-
Portland Maine- cobblestone streets
Ferry ride
Historic Mansions
Then on up the coast.
Our home for four days on Swan’s Island, near Acadia National Park:
We went to the beach:
Saw the lighthouse-
Went to the quarry swimming hole.
And generally relaxed and watched many, many, many hours of Start Trek: The Next Generation. There were lazy days, sandy treasures, bug bites, hot tubs, saunas, and beautiful sunsets.
Then we came home, stopping in Jersey City to visit a friend on the way. There were many long days in the car, but also hotel pools and hotel breakfasts and hotel tv, which, let’s be honest, the kids love. The drive home down I95 on a Sunday was hard, and the Husband is a hero for doing all the driving.
And now it’s summer and back to summer camp schedules and swim meets and in a few weeks, a summer opera gig for me. So many things to look forward to this summer- some tedious, and some exciting and some just new rhythms. These little life shifts are sometimes hard for me, but I think it’s good to keep me from getting into mindless ruts. When time opens up or is obligated in different ways, it is a chance to see where the important things fit.
Friday, as we were driving home- a very long car ride on a very long day- literally the longest day- I realized that the year is half over. I wonder if this is just how time goes- 2024 seemed to stretch endlessly before me six months ago and now I can see the shore. (Forgive the clumsy metaphor, but I have been in Maine looking at shores for the past week.). These markers are arbitrary, which seems like both a gift and a burden. A gift of freedom to mark my path however I want, but also a burden to know that I am responsible for navigating myself to that shore. I want this week, amidst feeding the family and driving them places to have some time to think about what the rest of the year can be.
Finishing out our Spring Break Trip recaps… Because, you know, summer vacation starts next week.
Day 9 of our trip was perhaps the most stereotypical San Francisco Tourist day. I wanted to ride the cable cars and see Chinatown. Fisherman’s Wharf was a close walk from there, so we decided to see that as well. On this day, my brother, sister-in-law, and niece came along and we met up with the Husband’s friend R and my sister-in-law’s mother came for part of the day as well.
We left Berkeley around 9:30am in the morning and got off at Embarcadero where we caught the cable car to Chinatown. I’ve always loved the cable cars – I worked in San Francisco, one of my first stage management gigs in the early 2000s, and from the theatre you could walk a few blocks and catch the cable car which would take me to the apartment where I was staying. There was something so magical about jumping on the cable car and riding with the San Francisco air and hum around me, this very slow and aged method of transport. Also, at the time, that particular line was free. It was all so romantic. The cable cars are no longer free, but they are still really fascinating to ride.
We took the California line to Chinatown where we got off, and slowly meandered through the streets, with their paper lanterns strewn above and steep hills and colourful murals. I stopped in at a wok shop – it was filled with all sorts of kitchen implements that I remember my mom having in our kitchen when I was growing up. Reminding myself that it would be very impractical, I refrained from buying a wok, but I did pick up a ginger grater, just like the one my mom used.
We made a walk through stop at the Fortune Cookie Factory, which was really one room where you could see them making fortune cookies, taking the freshly baked cookie off the mold and quickly folding a slip of paper inside before it hardened. To be honest, I wouldn’t say it’s a “must see” of Chinatown, even though it’s on a lot of lists – it was kind of a cramped, rushed experience and took all of 20 minutes, 15 of which were standing in line.
After the Fortune Cookie Factory, we walked to the San Francisco Cable Car Museum. This museum is housed in the powerhouse and cable car barn, and inside you can see the gears turning, winding the cables through the series of wheels, pulling the cable cars. It was really neat to think about how the cable cars we were just earlier riding on were powered by the machines we were looking at. There was all sorts of displays and artifacts that told the history of cable cars, as well as a collection of antique cable cars. My favorite was the display they had which showed how they detected frays in the cable. It was remarkably low tech – involving sensors that went off when a stray bit of cable filament was detected. I thought this museum was really interesting – definitely recommend it. AND it was free! I love me a free museum.
Just think -those are the very cables that pulled us to Chinatown!
One of the first cable cars.
After the cable car museum we decided to go back to Chinatown for lunch and ended up at a Pho restaurant – pho is one of my favorite dishes and this pho was amazing, so flavorful and rich. I also made a quick pit stop at a bakery in Chinatown to pick up some egg tarts, one of the 12 year old’s favorite desserts.
Following lunch, we walked to Fisherman’s Wharf, about a 30 minute walk, though North Beach. Fisherman’s Wharf is definitely touristy and part of the fun of going there is to people watch and soak in the bustling atmosphere. We were (probably) scammed into giving some guy $10, which felt icky to me, but the Husband said that we should think of the fast talker as entertainment, and he was hugely entertaining, with his swagger and confidence. So maybe not worth the whole $10, but at least worth something – it made me think about how maybe I shouldn’t be snobbish about how people decide to work hard for their money – because the guy was clearly working hard and probably not making much money. We also visited the Musee Mechanique, a huge collection of coin operated amusements and games. The place was fascinating – so many games to play and little dioramas that came to life at the drop of a coin – and some not so little dioramas too. Everything was so loud and bling-y and almost overwhelming. We gave the kids $5 each and let them play games until their money ran out.
After about an hour, our money spent, our ears ringing and our minds spinning from all the over stimulation, we decided to walk down the Embarcadero, taking the long way back to the BART station. On the way, we stopped at Pier 39 for ice cream (I got lychee- one of my favorites!) and to see the sea lions.
We got home around 6:15pm, and made pizzas for dinner and finished the evening by watching Mitchells vs. the Machines, which was a lovely movie.
The next day was Easter Sunday. We found a church in Berkeley and went to Mass. It was a lovely modest church and, maybe it was because we went to the 8:00am Mass, the pews were on the empty side. Nonetheless, the service was quite lovely. The homily was centered around the question of “Who will move the boulder?” – meaning we often worry about tasks that seem impossible (who will move the huge boulder from the tomb of Christ so that Mary may see to the body), but perhaps they are not as impossible as we think (the boulder being already moved when they arrive.) I’m not Catholic, not particularly religious, but I do often find things to ponder when I listen to homilies. Afterwards we went to breakfast – at first we tried to go to a local diner, but it was closed, so we ended up at IHOP, which actually was quite nice – we have an off and on family tradition of eating at IHOP on Easter Sunday.
We went back to my brother’s house where we had an Easter Egg hunt. We were on the fence as to whether or not to do Easter eggs, but then decided that the kids would like it, so we bought and filled a bunch of eggs and my sister in law had hid the eggs while we were at church. Now my SIL is Jewish, but fully appreciates the fun of looking for candy in plastic eggs. Even their neighbors came over for a little while.
After the easter egg hunt, we decided to go on a nice little walk around Berkeley. We went to a really tasty Mexican restaurant for lunch – I had tacos and nachos and plantains and horchata.
Then we headed to the middle school, by way of a pretzel store (Squabisch Pretzels, above), to play a game of pick up basketball – kids against grown up. So funny story – my brother was a HUGE basketball fan/player when we were growing up. But, being a short Asian boy, his dreams of playing in the NBA weren’t entirely realistic. When we decided to go shoot hoops, he pulled a pair of basketball shoes out of the attic that must have been at least 15 years old. Anyhow, as we were playing basketball with the kids, he shoe FELL APART! Like the sole came off. Only not all the way because the sole was stitched at the toe. He walked around the rest of the day with his sole flap flap flapping awkwardly. Well that pretty much put an end to the basketball game, so we decided to walk to coffee and Indian Rock Park, where there was a nice rocky scramble. My kids LOVE a rocky scramble. Indian Rock is a popular local spot for urban rock climbers. We saw a couple groups that had brought their own crash pads and were bouldering across the rock faces.
View from the top.
At the summit of the Indian Rock was a spectacular view of Berkeley and Oakland and across the Bay. We hung out there and let the kids play for a little bit, but soon it was time to go home and pack as we were leaving the next morning. I went to rally the kids, taking this photo of the fearless 4 year old before telling her to come down so we could leave.
King of the Hill. For a little bit.
Then things went south. I turned to look for the other kids, and then I heard a cry. I looked back and couldn’t see the 4 year old. Running over to the rocks, i saw that she had fallen down between two rocks and was crying. She very rarely cries, so I knew she was in trouble, so I reached in a pulled her out, giving her big hugs and cuddles and trying to comfort her as I carried her back to the exit. Then this is where it got scary. Someone, I can’t remember who, but I think the 12 year old started frantically saying, “BLOOD BLOOD BLOOD!!!” It took me a while to register, but there was blood running down my hand, the hand that was cradling the back of the 4 year old’s head. Then my brain kind of just froze.
Things I am grateful for: 1) My brother, who is a physician. Took a look at the gash on the back of the 4 year old’s head, and rinsed it with water and decided that we should go to the children’s hospital and he came with me. 2) All the bystanders who offered help, including: -the preschool teacher who came up and said, “I just completed my 1st aid training for school. Can I help?” – the rock climber, who came up and just handed us a big wad of gauze. Okay, I guess it makes sense for people who are engaged in highly dangerous activities to carry gauze with them. 3) The Uber driver who took us there, offered us water and didn’t even blink that we were dripping blood in his car. 4) The Husband and my sister-in-law who got the rest of the kids home and fed them dinner. And the Husband who packed us up to leave while I was at the Hospital. 5) Bluey. 6) Insurance.
So we get to the ER at Oakland Children’s Hospital and check in. The lady at reception was so funny. First of all, a few minutes after we arrived, the power went out – I’m not sure what that was about, but then the generators kicked in. As the lady took my information, I asked how she was, and she said, “It’s Easter and the power keeps going out, so I think I’ve been better.” Then, as she was entering my personal information into the system – I give her my birthday, and she types it in, then looks at me and says, “That’s your birthday? You look good!” “Thank you,” I say, laughing. “I’m sure you see lots of people in here.” “I’m not kidding,” she says, “Sometimes people come in and give me their birthday and I’m really surprised.”
We were in the waiting room for about two hours initially. Frankly by the time we got to the ER, the 4 year old was a lot better. “It doesn’t hurt as much anymore,” she said as we entered the hospital. Further proof – Paw Patrol was playing on the TV in the waiting room and as soon as we checked in, she walked over, pulled a chair in front of the TV and was glued to the screen. At some point, after the power went out, the TV turned off, so we switched to watching Bluey on one of our phones.
Waiting room.
Finally it was our turn to go back and be seen by the doctor.
So this is one of the great things about having my physician brother with me – Oakland Children’s is a teaching hospital, and the first people we saw was a nurse and a resident. “How are we doing?” one of them asked. “She fell off a rock and hit her head,” I said. Then my brother added, “There’s a two centimeter laceration on the base of her cranium. No loss of consciousness. She might need stitches.” Cool. Glad he was with me. The doctors and the nurse made murmurs of agreement. Then they went away to figure out the next steps. Before they went away, however, my brother said, pointing to his shoe (do you remember the broken shoe?), “Do you have scissors? I need to cut this sole off.” And the next thing we knew, this happened:
The resident said the he didn’t want my brother tripping and have to make a second trip to the ER.
And then a little while later, the attending physician came and looked at the wound. And she said, “You know there’s a technique we like to use on the head that is pretty un-invasive where we use the hair to close the wound. I think we should try that.”
People – this is what they did – and it’s probably one of the most amazing things I’ve ever encountered. They take tiny sections of hair on either side of the wound and twist them together tightly so that the wound closes. Then they GLUE THE HAIR TWIST so that it doesn’t untwist. They literally glued my baby girl’s head back together!!!!! Mind blown. And I didn’t need to worry about stiches (when I was five I fell and had to get stitches and there was a lot of screaming involved) or going home with a staple remover or anything. Here’s a picture (warning if you’re not into pictures of wounds, scroll down.):
All patched up and then we called the Husband to come pick us up and we were on our way. The 4 year old was in amazing spirits – I mean she got to watch endless Bluey, what’s not to love? All told, we spent about 3 hours in the emergency room. Which, actually doesn’t feel bad.
Don’t bother me, I’m watching Bluey!
And, okay, one other fun fact – in our 12 years of being parents, this was our VERY FIRST emergency room visit. I think that’s pretty good streak. Also – if I had to guess which kid would send us to the emergency room, it would definitely have been this one. The other two kids are pretty risk adverse.
I feel as if the rest of the trip was pretty anti-climactic after that. The next morning we left at 4am for the airport to catch our 6:10am flight. We got to the airport at 4:50am and we still only made our flight by the skin of our teeth – Oakland is a very busy airport and the security lines were long. We seriously thought we were going to miss our flight. But then in the end – our plane pulled out and then sat on the runway and then returned to the gate because of a transponder malfunction and we had to deplane and get another plane two hours later. Which was just as well because we originally would have had an awfully long layover in St. Louis, but as it was our layover was pleasantly long enough to grab lunch (fried ravioli!!!!) and a beer (Schlafly!). Then we were home – we took the shuttle to the hotel where we had parked, got in our car and went home, where, thank goodness for eggs, we had dinner then went to bed.
Whew that was our whole Spring Break Trip! Next year, I’m working over spring break, so if there is a trip, I probably won’t be able to go. I’m really glad we took the time and effort and money to make this trip happen!
Oh and postscript- because of the delay leaving Oakland, Southwest sent each of us $150 towards a future flight. Not as lucrative as how Elisabeth made out on her trip to Barcelona, but it’s enough to make another trip more affordable. So – here is a list of airports that are a non-stop flight from Washington DC – where should we go next?
Albany, NY Albuquerque, NM Aruba, Aruba Atlanta, GA Austin, TX Belize Birmingham, AL Boston, MA Buffalo, NY Cancun, Mexico Charleston SC Charlotte, NC Chicago, IL Cincinnati, OH Cleveland, OH Colorado Springs, CO Columbus, OH Dallas, TX Denver, CO Destin/Fort Walton Beach, FL Detroit, MI Fort Lauderdale, FL Fort Myers, FL Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands Grand Rapids, MI Greenville, SC Hartford, CT Houston, TX Indianapolis, IN Jackson, MS Jacksonville, FL Kansas City, MO Las Vegas, NV Liberia, Costa Rica Long Island, NY Los Angeles, CA Los Cabos, MX Louisville, KY Manchester, NH Memphis, TN Miami, FL Milwaukee, WI Minneapolis, MN Montego Bay, Jamaica Myrtle Beach, SC Nashville, TN Nassau, Bahamas, New Orleans, LA Norfolk, VA Oakland, CA Omaha, NE Orlando, FL Panama City Beach, FL Phoenix, ZA Pittsburgh, PA Portland, ME Providence, RI Turks and Caicos Punta Cana, DO Raleigh/Durham, NC Richmond, VA Rochester, NY Salt Lake City, UT San Antoni0, TX San Diego, CA San Jose, Costa Rica San Juan, PR Sarasota, FL Savannah, Hilton Head, GA Seattle, WA St. Louis, MO Syracuse, NY Tampa, FL West Palm Beach, FL
Continuing on recaps from our Spring Break trip to Berkeley and San Francisco….
One of our other goals for visiting the Bay Area was to visit our friend R who lived in San Francisco. He used to live in DC, but moved to San Francisco five years ago or so. Even though R doesn’t have kids, he’s always really liked hanging out with ours and whenever we see him, he always suggests family friendly excursions, which I appreciate. This times, he suggested that we visit the California Academy of Sciences, an aquarium, planetarium, and natural history museum all rolled into one. We took the BART and then the bus from Berkeley there and met our friend outside the museum. There was so much to see there, but here are some highlights –
Stingray tank:
There was a great outdoor space where on one end there was a huge water table set up and a station with lots of corks and sticks and you could experiment and build a boat/raft to send down the waterways of the water table. On the other end was a play area with huge insects and sticks and structures to climb. We liked this part of the museum so much we came here twice!
There was a whole exhibit about colour in nature and all the ways that animals and plants use colour. It reminded me of the rainbow game I play with the kids, and would surely have been cheating to play it in the exhibit. I particularly liked this display on beetles, and this other case on sea life. What a beautifully vibrant colour!
Lunch – probably the best meal I’ve had in a museum – roasted brussel sprouts and tortilla soup:
The Rainforest Exhibit, steamy and warm and full of lush greenery, butterflies, and birds:
Then we wandered down into the Aquarium where there were Jellyfish –
Sea horses – so cool because I had never seen a seahorse before:
And I did play the rainbow game with the kids while at the aquarium:
That evening we headed back to Berkeley for dinner, while the Husband stayed in San Francisco to go to dinner with his friend. My brother’s family, my parents, and the kids and I ended up at this very tasty Thai restaurant called The Funky Elephant. The restaurant was teeny tiny and we ended up sitting outside, even thought the evening had gotten chilly. The restaurant rolled out some heat lamps for us, whic helped a little. The food was unlike any other Thai restaurant we’d ever been to – spicy and flavorful and not too sweet. We ordered lots of food to share and I particularly liked the crispy rice salad with tofu and the Fried Brussel sprouts. (Yes! I had fried brussel sprouts TWICE in one day! That was exciting.) And for dessert we all shared a mango sticky rice, which is one of my favorite deserts ever. Highly recommend this place if you are ever in Berkeley.
95% of the time, when I see mango and sticky rice on a menu, I will order it.
Incidentally, the Husband texted while I was at dinner and said that his friend had an extra ticket to the Bruce Springsteen concert and would it be okay if he went? Of course I said yes! I myself have never been to any kind of rock concert – and honestly, I don’t know if it’s my thing what with the noise and crowds – but I was super excited that he got a chance to go.
The next day was Friday, and my brother took the day off to hang out with us. We had planned to go hiking, but it turned out to be a rainy rainy day, so he suggested that we go to the rock climbing gym instead. Going to a climbing gym as a family had long been on my “Family Fun Wish List”, so I was excited to go. The Husband did not go with us – he wasn’t interested in climbing and wanted to have a day to himself instead. He told me afterwards that he had gone to Telegraph Road, which is one of the major streets in Berkeley, and had just walked around. I had told him that he should check out Amoeba Records. Twenty years ago, I lived in Berkeley while working one of my first stage management gigs at an outdoor Shakespeare company in Marin County. On my days off, I would spend a lot of time at Amoeba Records and also Rasputin Records. Anyhow, the Husband found the two music stores and we had this text exchange:
It’s funny in our age of streaming media to think the huge percentage of my paycheck that I poured into record stores, only to now not really have any convenient way to play those CDs.
Meanwhile, back to the climbing gym … My brother is super active and outdoorsy- he is the guy that goes on five day back country camping trips, and goes to the climbing gym at least twice a week. He had child sized climbing belts and shoes for the two little kids to wear- gear that used to belong to my niece but she had outgrown. He had actually passed the climbing gear along to his neighbor’s kids, so he called them to see if we could borrow it back. The climbing gym, Pacific Pipe in Oakland, was a huge facility. I think it’s one of the biggest in the area, and also one of the oldest. We bought day passes and rented shoes for the 12 year old and me.
We started out with some bouldering:
Then we moved on to top roping – my brother belayed. This gym had a space dedicated for kids to top rope, but it was under construction – I think they were changing up the routes – so the kids just climbed on the easier grown up walls. I was really impressed by how well the kids did and how high they went, and how even though there were many handholds, they tried really hard to follow the colour of each route, even though it wasn’t always easy. I didn’t feel like renting a climbing belt, so I just stuck to bouldering myself. It is SUCH a workout.
For lunch we went to Ikea then the kids wanted to climb some more, so we went back to the gym for another hour or so.
Around 3pm, we headed home. The two little kids and I walked down with my sister in law to pick up my niece from school.
Since it was a Friday in Lent, we wanted some tasty vegetarian food for dinner, so my brother took us to Vik’s Chaat. I had come here years ago, when it was just a restaurant in a big warehouse. Now it also has an Indian grocery story attached, which was very exciting to me and I made a note to check it out later.
We ordered lassis; the kids had mango, and I had a rose lassi. I don’t often see rose lassis on a menu, but it is one of my favorite lassi flavors so I always order it when I see it.
Dinner itself was very tasty, but somewhat of an ordeal. Vik’s is not like Indian restaurants at home where you order a bunch of dishes – basically everything come in a Thali so you get whatever your order – saag panner, dosa, samosa, along with chutney, dal, and rice. The idea being that your order is your meal. Well one child, likes to eat family style and try a bunch of different things, and also wasn’t familiar with the menu, and thought the cheese dosa would have paneer in it, but it just had American Cheese. And said child was probably hangry and tired and then had a meltdown in the restaurant and had to be taken aside to calm down. The whole thing made me realize how, even in America there are places that can be bewilderingly different from what we are used to in our own city.
After dinner, I checked out the grocery store. Because I didn’t want to bring a lot of things home with us in our suitcases, I exerted great restraint and did not buy all the dals and spices and snacks that were there. I did, however buy a 16 oz container of cardamom pods and 16 oz cloves and a bag of Assam tea because it all was about 1/2 the price as what I usually get at home, and I can’t usually find Assam tea at home. It is soon going to be iced chai season and I am really excited.
After that we headed home, the kids went to bed, I chatted a little with my brother and sister-in-law before going back to our apartment and turning in for the night. We had two more days left in our trip and they would be filled with planned and unplanned adventures.
Continuing our Spring Break recaps. Since my brother and sister in law had to work and my niece had school, we had several days with my parents to see the sights of San Francisco and Berkeley.
One place I really wanted to visit was the Sutro Baths. They are what are left of a public bathouses that were built on the coast of the Pacific Ocean by millionaire Adolph Sutro in the 1890s. It was a huge complex with seven swimming pools, water slides, diving boards and the like. But then the place became too expensive and eventually in the 1960s it was sold to developers who started to demolish the site. Then in 1966 there was a fire and the developers collected the insurance money and abandoned the project. The site is now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.
Such splendor! Photo from the National Parks Website.
Back in the early 2000s when I worked in San Francisco, the Sutro Baths was one of my favorite places to go on a free day- I would take the bus all the way to the end of the line and walk down to the ruins of the Baths where I would spend an afternoon at the there, enjoying the brisk windy air, gazing at the ocean, and wandering among the ruins, imagining what it must have been like to come here on vacation over a century ago.
On Monday morning, we left the house around 10am and took the BART into San Francisco and I re-lived those youthful summers, once again taking the bus all the way to the end of the line. Google maps actually told us to get off a couple blocks before the ocean, but the bus driver asked, “Are you guys going to the ocean?”
“Yes!” we said.
“Don’t get off at this stop. Get off at the next stop. I don’t know why Google always tells people to get off at 44t street.”
We got off at the recommended stop – the driver even giving us directions on how to get the right bus back – and then headed towards the ocean and the Baths. I’ve always loved approaching the ocean – hearing the surf and feeling the wind even before that endless sky in front of you coalesces into the ocean. I will never not find the ocean breathtaking.
First glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.
The Sutro Baths were just as romantic as I remember, perhaps a little more graffiti on the walls than twenty years ago. It is easy to imagine that these ruins are older than they are, that these last standing remnants of walls and crumbling concrete are the product of centuries of decay a la Rome. Of course the reality is that it’s just a 1960s destruction project that had been abandoned. We wandered around the runs, walked around the paths, watched the ocean waves. We spent two hours there, then headed on foot to our next destination.
All that’s left now.Graffiti walls.See those tunnels on the right…Tunnel to another view of the ocean.Playing among the ruinsAnother view of the Golden Gate Bridge. You can see it everywhere!
Taking a page out of Elisabeth’s book, I had googled “Hidden Gems San Francisco” to find places to visit. One of the things that came up on several searches was the Queen Wilhelmina Gardens where we could find an authentic Dutch windmill. The gardens were about a mile away from the Sutro Baths, so we headed there on foot walking down the Great Highway, parallel to Ocean Beach, and some amazing clouds. We stopped at a hippie little coffee shop/surf shop called Andytown Roasters for hot chocolate (the kids), a matcha latte (me) and a mocha (the Husband). Then we went to the Safeway across the street to pick up some food for lunch.
Matcha latte.
Lunch in hand, we made our way to the Gardens and it was like stepping across the pond to the Netherlands. A huge windmill loomed and all around there were beds of tulips. Tulip season had already peaked so the flowers were a mix of poppies and tulips, but still very beautiful. We sat on a benches and ate our lunch while basking in the sunshine. After they were done eating, the 12 year old ran around the garden taking pictures and the little kids just ran around. There were large grassy areas perfect for frolicking. I thought the whole things was a little ironic because even though we were in Amsterdam last Spring Break, we didn’t see any tulips or windmills, even though it was peak tulip season. It would have required booking either a tour or a rental car to have gone to see the tulip fields. And yet here we were, a year later, in San Francisco, among tulips, under the shade of a windmill. We took pictures and sent them to my sister-in-law in Amsterdam to see if she also enjoyed the irony.
Where ARE we???
Our next stop after the garden was to a bison paddock, which was also in Golden Gate Park. I had a colleague who had spent ten years working for the opera in San Francisco and she had sent me a list of things to see while we were there and the Bison Paddock was one of those things. We wandered to the Paddock via some unpaved trails. One thing I thought was amazing were the calla lilies growing wildly along the trail, some of them taller than the four year old. I’ve always thought of calla lilies as a hot house flower, so it was very surprising to see them out in the wild.
Calla lilies in the wild.
The Husband loves bison, so the Bison Paddock in Golden Gate Park was an obvious stop for us. Bison were first brought to Golden Gate Park in 1891, and in the early days, the Golden Gate bison were part of a breeding program to grow America’s dwindling Bison population. All the bison currently in the paddock are female – apparently females are less aggressive, and they were certainly a very calm bunch. I sat on a bench and just watched them going about with life and it was very calming.
Oh give me a home…
Soon it got to be 3pm and we started heading back to Berkeley, via bus and BART. We got back around 5:00pm and spent the next ninety minutes relaxing around the house. I might even have taken a nap. We had dinner plans that evening with friends so headed in that direction around 6pm. One of the 12 year old’s friends from preschool had moved to Berkeley two years ago and we were super excited for a chance to visit her and her family and catch up. (Fun coincidence – they are renting a house that belongs to the good friend of my sister-in-law a house that I visited with her in 20013. Small world.) We met our preschool friends at a Chinese restaurant in the same plaza as the Ranch 99, which is a huge Chinese supermarket chain.
The restaurant itself was a little disappointing because we thought they would serve the dim sum menu, even though it was a weekday night, but they didn’t. They literally gave us the dim sum menu then pointed at one page of it and said that was all we could order off of that menu. Otherwise we could order from the main menu. I had been all psyched up to have my favorite dim sum dishes like chang fen and egg tarts, and my hopes were dashed. Oh well, it’s not like we starved – we ended up ordering a bunch of dumplings and shu mai as well as dumplings, Chinese broccoli, kung pao chicken, noodles… so much food!
After dinner we went to get some boba. There were something like THREE boba places in this little strip mall. THREE! At home, I only have one in a two mile radius. The one the kids went to was called Dessert Lab and was chosen because it had the best cups. Go figure. I neglected to get a pictures of these cups, but they were pretty cute. Dessert Lab also had a row of those claw machines – you know where you put in money and you get a chance to use the claw to win a prize. The 12 year old managed to win a prize, and then it caused a bit of a meltdown because the 7 year old got jealous and mad that he couldn’t figure it out and used his tokens to no avail. I had to explain to all the kids that the game is rigged and the 12 year old is not more skilled at the claw game than the 7 year old. (Okay in my googling it appears that some jurisdictions consider claw machines a form of gambling… I find that so interesting!) Everyone got some form of boba, which made it a very lovely, albeit late evening by the time everyone got their drinks and were sitting down. Nonetheless it was great to catch up and see old friends again. Before we parted ways for the evening, they invited us over to hang out later in the week.
Tuesday was our day to go to Muir Woods and see the giant Redwood trees. This was the only activity for which I got reservations advance because my brother had warned me that the Muir Woods parking lot often fills up early in the day, so best to get parking reservations in advance. (We didn’t actually pay for the park because we had a National Parks Pass – yay for using that!). The drive from Berkeley is about an hour, and we stopped at a grocery store and got sandwiches and snacks to eat for lunch while in Muir Woods.
At the park, just by the visitor’s station there was a park ranger with a little display about Redwoods. We learned some cool things about redwood trees – like Muir woods has Coastal Redwoods (vs. Sequoias at Yosemite. I didn’t realize that Sequoias are redwoods), redwood trees are conifers (which I don’t think I had realized, but they are so tall, it’s hard to tell), they grow through both seedlings and through sprouting from their base, and though there aren’t that many left, they are not protected and the ranger often sees truckloads of cut down redwood trees on the highway and it makes her sad. We then took off down the trail. The hike through the park is initially quite easy- there is a boardwalk through the forest that takes one on a two mile loop. The trees were much skinnier than I had expected, yet they were so so so so tall. An improbable feat of nature and physics.
The trail ran alongside a river and there were lots of placards to read along the way. I love a good placard. The placard at this group of trees explained how the trees grow by sprouting from the base of the original tree and can even keep growing if the original tree is damaged. It’s a little hard to make out, but you can see the stump of the original tree within the circle of growing trees:
One of my favorite places was Cathedral Grove where there are signs asking people to be quiet so visitors can savor all the sounds of the forest. It was magical – the tall tall trees reaching up up up and the sounds of the stream and the birds.
I thought this was funny – the 12 year old got a camera for Christmas and she brought it on this trip and took lots of pictures:
And then for scale – you can see how tall the tree are compared to the people on the bridge:
There are also trails that branch off the loop to Ben Johnson Trail. We took Ben Johnson Trail, hoping that it would connect to Dipsea Trail which would have a good view of the San Francisco Bay. Ben Johnson Trail was a little steeper and more challenging since the path was skinnier and there were a couple times we crossed over the river via a footbridge. Before we got to the spur to the Dipsea Trail however, I saw online that that the bridge at the end of the trail that would take us back to the parking lot was closed for salmon spawning, and there was an additional mile detour to take. Normally an mile is not a big deal, but sometimes when hiking it can take up to 40 minutes to walk a mile with the kids and since we had to be back to Berkeley by 5:00pm, we didn’t really have time for an additional mile detour. So we found a spot on the side of the trail to sit and eat our lunch and then headed back to my brother’s place. We had at one point thought about finding a park nearby, but the one park we found was near a school and when we drove there, it was dismissal time and there was no where to park. So we just skipped it and went home. For dinner, my sister in law made a really tasty frittata with eggs from her chickens! Then we had another chill evening at home.
Wednesday we stayed in Berkeley since my niece gets out of school early on Wednesdays. To pass the morning, we decided to go to the Berkeley Botanical Gardens. Because we had a membership at a museum with reciprocal privileges, we got to go to the Botanical Gardens for free.
(We have a membership at the Walker Museum in Minneapolis. We don’t live in Minneapolis, but the Husband was there last September to visit the Minnesota State Fair and visited the Walker while there. Turns out, a membership there would cover the cost of going to the museum with his friends, and becauase the Walker is part of NARM (North American Reciprocal Museum Association), it gives us admissions at a bunch of other museums and botanical gardens around the country. Some of the museums are even here in DC! It makes it worth keeping our Walker subscription in the future even though we don’t plan to be back any time soon.)
Anyhow, at the Botanical Gardens, my favorite things were the South African Garden which was a riot of colour, being in full bloom, the Japanese Pond, and the Succulent green houses. I thought the Arid House was cool because there was a cool room and a hot room and you could really tell how cool weather cacti were different form warm weather cacti.
There were newts in the Japanese pond, in various stages and sizes of metamorphosis, seimming through the water with their paddle like tails. The kids liked looking for newts in the murky water and jumping from rock to rock. And then, of course, the four year old missed a rick and ended up shin deep in the pond. I might have let out a panicked squawk/ shriek. At first we thought that we should just go home at that point, but then decided that, okay maybe having to walk around in wet shoes was sufficient punishment.
We played out Rainbow Game at the Bontanical Gardens too, the blooming Sough African garden making the game almost too easy – despite the grey and almost drizzly weather, there were so many colours to see around us. And I found something indigo!!! And even a passable blue.
After the Botanical Gardens, we decided to check of another of our “Must Do” items on our list and went to lunch at In-N-Out. For those who don’t know, In-N-Out is an iconic burger chain in California. Their menu is pretty much just burger, fries, soft drinks, milk shakes. There might also be a hot dog option. (My brother who is a vegetarian goes there too, and he basically gets the bun, with the special sauce, cheese, lettuce, grilled onions and tomatoes… lest you think there isn’t something for everyone. But this isn’t on the menu – there is a secret In-N-Out menu. Well, not so secret because you can just google it.)
There is no In=N-Out in Berkeley, so we drove about twenty minutes away to Alameda. When we pulled up, we saw that the drive through line was unbelievably long. It snaked out of the parking lot – there were actually In-N-Out workers walking down the drive through line taking orders. At first I was nervous that it was going to be a while, but inside, there was actually no line at all and we got our food pretty quickly. It was delicious.
Food highlight!
After lunch we headed back to Berkeley where we relaxed at my brother’s house for an hour before heading over to our pre-school friend’s place. Since the kids got out of school early, we had been invited over to hang out for the afternoon. We brought our niece with us and it was a pretty chill afternoon. The little kids and I built Duplo train tracks around the dining room and the older kids played with my friend’s VR set. I thought it was pretty hilarious watching them swipe at air with that headset on.
Around six o’clock we headed out to get on the BART to meet my brother for dinner at a dumpling restaurant, New Dumpling. My brother is a huge foodie and this unassuming tiny restaurant has a Michelin star, and its Bib Gourmand designation, given to restaurants that have excellent food at a lower price point. In addition to dumplings, they had scallion pancakes, beef noodle soup, and a variety of salads/ side dishes. It was all really tasty; I really liked their shredded potato salad – kind of like spicy salt and vinegar chips in a salad form – and the beef noodle soup. The dumpling were tasty, though I still like our hometown favorite dumpling place better.
This is the only picture I took of dumpling dinner, I guess I was too busy eating the VERY tasty food.
Bellies full of dumplings, we headed back to my brother’s place – some folks with their car, and some on BART. It was hard to believe we were over halfway through our trip! But we still had some good adventures to come.
Side note – while hanging out at my brother’s house, I was looking at old issues of the New Yorker, and came across this cartoon, which I thought was hilarious – I laughed so so so hard. I’m going to leave it right here for you – does it make you laugh?
I don’t often have Spring Break off, so when I realized that I did, we decided to take a family trip. We chose to go to Berkeley for Spring Break this year because my brother lives there and while he and his family have come to visit us several times, we hadn’t been to visit him since 2017. Like Amsterdam last year, it was a family based destination, but we took advantage of being in a big city to have some fun adventures.
The flight over went quite smoothly. It was a 6:30am flight, and we left home at 4:05 am. It was hard for me to get up that early because I am a “night before” packer so I didn’t go to sleep til about 2:30am. Plus I had to get tax documents out to our tax person, and send the soccer snack sign ups before we left, so I had a few things to do the night before. My own fault for being such a procrastinator. We drove to the airport and parked at a hotel via Spot Hero. Spot Hero is a third party site that let you book parking spots at hotels near the airport, then you can just take the airport shuttle to the airport. It’s much cheaper than airport parking, and gives us the flexibility to drive ourselves to the airport. Even with leaving 15 minutes later than we wanted, having to go back to get a forgotten bag, and missing a few turns, we parked and still got to the airport at 5:15am. Good for us!!
Early morning airport. Grateful that the kids are of an age to carry/wheel their own luggage.
We flew Southwest and somehow the kids got put in a different boarding group from the adults. We were a little nervous about this, but it had been so long since we last flew that I had forgotten about Family Boarding and that we could actually board together between Group A and Group B since we had kids. Hooray! We only have two more years of Family Boarding left, and that makes me a little sad.
I sat with the two little kids and the Husband sat with the 12 year old. We had forgotten to pack earphones for the two little kids, so they shared my spare pair of earbuds. More to the point- the 7 year old forgot to bring his earphones home from school and the 4 year old was playing with her earphones the night before, and didn’t put them back in her backpack. Luckily, the Husband had an extra set of earphones in his bag, so each kid took one earbud, which was a little awkward, but they seemed fine with it and was actually kind of sweet. The kids watched movies and drank apple juice on the flights and were generally pretty chill. There was a layover in Kansas City where we found a playspace, a real bookstore (not just a magazine kiosk with best-sellers) and we ate BBQ, which might have been a little heavy for 8am, but we we were in Kansas City, so why not?
Ready for the flight. Side note: the 7 year old made that sleep mask in sewing class!Kansas City Playspace
We arrived in Oakland at 12:30pm and took the BART to my brother’s. I had pre-loaded the transit card onto my phone before my trip and it proved really convenient to be able to just tap my phone to ride transit. It did take me a couple days to find the right angle to tap to consistently get my phone to read, but once I figured it out it worked really well – I could add money while on the go and I could see how much money I was using. I had been hesitant to put payment methods on my phone up til now, but with the Clipper Card on the phone you save the $3 card fee and I could do it before I got to Oakland, so it seemed practical. I’m a little slow to technology, but having the card on my phone wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be and I think I’ll have to do the same with my DC Metro card. Maybe.
My sister-in-law met us at the BART station in Berkeley with the car so the Husband drove the luggage and the 7 year old to their house while she and I and the 12 year old and 4 year old walked – it was just a 15 minute walk to her house and the weather was beautiful. My brother has just finished a huge home renovation; they literally took down everything except one wall and one floor. Apparently they had to leave one wall and floor intact or else the project would be a “new build” and there are more stringent regulations for that. Their “new” house is gorgeous, fill of light and clean lines and cool things like heated bathroom floors and a lanai. They also converted the garage into a one bedroom apartment. They are eventually going to rent out that apartment, but it is currently empty and that’s where we stayed. It was really convenient because we had the place to ourselves to spread out and sleep, and just popped next door to their place for meals and hanging out. The two littles slept together on a futon mattress with sleeping bags. It was kind of hilarious because these were the mummy style sleeping bags and the kids loved zipping themselves in it and crawling around on the floor. We called them “blue worm” and “grey worm” throughout the visit. By the end of the week, the 7 year old could crawl into our bed while in a sleeping bag, which I think is kind of impressive.
Grey worm and blue worm!
Our first two days in Berkeley were pretty chill, family days. We picked up my niece from school on Friday then had a quiet evening at home. On the walk to my nieces’ school, I loved seeing how colourful and green all the yards were in Berkeley. It seems as if everyone is some kind of expert gardener. (Or has an expert gardener). My brother and sister-in-law also raise chickens and that was fascinating for me to see. The kids loved going to feed the chickens. It’s so interesting how much more separated garbage is in Berkeley – they have city wide composting in addition to recycling and trash pick up, so that the landfill trash is actually the smallest container. And on top of that that, a large portion of their vegetable scraps is actually saved by my brother and sister-in-law and fed to the chickens. I know there is a cliche about “crunchy-granolda” Berkeley people, but when you see it in action, it does feels pretty ordinary, but also kind of like a foreign country where you don’t know all the rules; it feels like being very intentional about actions, but I felt all week like I was throwing my trash in the wrong place.
The other funny “Berkeley” thing that happened all week centers around this silly game the kids play where they punch each other when they see a Tesla. It’s like the Punch Buggy game, only with Teslas instead of VW Beetles. Well, it’s kind of a fun game at home because we don’t see a huge number of Teslas around, but we quickly realized that in Berkeley, the game is ridiculous because there are soooo many Teslas. We upped the stakes to say that you had to say the colour of the Tesla and read it’s license plate number. And then we also went back to just playing Punch Buggy because there were so few Beetles in Berkeley – I think we saw about ten during the whole week.
Saturday, the two little kids were up around 4am, their bodies not having quite adjusted to the time zone change yet. That was a little challenging, but they are pretty good about not bothering the sleeping parent unless they have to. Later that morning, two of my cousins came over in the morning, and we had a great visit, chatting over bagels and coffee/tea. In the afternoon, my parents arrived- they had driven up from Los Angeles for the week. We went to a park, and to play basketball, and checked out the learning garden at the local middle school and then walked to the library. The weather had been kind of drizzly and kind of rainy and kind of bright and sunny, and on the way home we saw a rainbow!
Sunday was our first big San Francisco adventure. We drove to Richmond, about 15 minutes from Berkeley, and took the Ferry from Richmond to San Francisco. As the Ferry crossed the San Francisco Bay, my brother pointed out all the landmarks- the Oakland skyline, the approaching San Francisco skyline, Mount Tamalpais, Angel Island, Alcatraz, and of course the Golden Gate Bridge.
Golden Gate Bridge, Marin County is on the right.
The Ferry took about 40 minutes (and $4.00, which I consider a great deal!) and dropped us off right in front of the Ferry Building. From there we walked ten minutes to the Exploratorium, which is a huge hands on science museum. It is full of interactive exhibits where people can see science in action. Last month when I took the 7 year old to the art museum he had said, somewhat petulantly, “This is the worst museum ever! There are no screens or buttons!” Well, let me tell you, the Exploratorium more than made up for it. There were exhibits on sound and sight and perceptions, and psychological experiments, and an animation station, and also exhibits on how things worked from the atomic level to large mechanical things. I particularly liked the exhibit on dance and how it showed people (and animals) of all ages and sizes moving rhythmically even though they were never taught how to dance.
This one was about the psychology of kindness, demonstrated by whether or not people would rewind video cassettes given that no one watches them do it. . Do you remember VIDO CASSETTES???? What a blast of nostalgia.
This one was about steam.
This was a game where people had to work together to manipulate various elements.
This was in the display on reflection and visual illusions. Human Kaleidoscope.
This one was about the psychology of how what we see or think influences our actions, even if it is illogical. The water is perfectly clean. The four year old thought it was pretty cool to be able to drink from the toilet.
This San Francisco-inspired piece is made entirely of toothpicks. See if you can spot the SF landmarks? In case you can’t read the caption – it took one man 48 years to build this, and he’s still building and adding to it. This was one of my favorite displays.
Because my brother had an Exploratorium membership we got in at 10:30am, before the building opened to the general public at 12noon. This was great because while it was still pretty crowded at 10:30am, it was still pretty manageable. It was kind of overwhelming and the kids zoomed from display to display. I don’t know if they actually thought about the science behind every exhibit, but they sure had fun seeing things work. I was really fascinated by the laboratory where you could see people experimenting and coming up with new exhibits. How fun is that to make a living coming up with science experiments for a museum!
Around 12:30pm, my sister in law and my parents brought us lunch that they had picked up from various stores in the Ferry Building – empanadas, bao, dumplings, manakish. We ate at the picnic tables outside the Exploratorium then went back in for more exploration. By that time it was a complete zoo. I might have lost a child for a couple minutes. The nice thing about having an even kid to adult ratio was that each adult could be responsible for one kid – we could play man to man defense rather than zone. Even still, sometimes my kids are fast and they dart to the next flashing light and button pushing exhibit the moment I blink. Anyhow, we found him not far away, but it was kind of alarming for a while because we were in a particularly dark exhibit.
Around 2:00pm we dragged the reluctant kids out of the Exploratorium because the adults wanted to walk up to Coit Tower. Coit Tower is not as iconic as the Golden Gate Bridge, but it is still a pretty visible San Francisco landmark. To get to Coit Tower we took the Filbert Steps – a 400 some odd staircase path from Embarcadero St. It was certainly a bit of a haul to climb, but as we got higher, we could see some amazing views. Also I find the whole thing fascinating because intersecting the steps are little lanes that lead to residences. I can’t imagine living in a house where the only way to get to the house are these flights of stairs – the logistics of that! Like where do they put their trash? But also because the Filbert Steps is not open to traffic, it’s actually a quiet, almost idyllic slice of San Francisco.
View from Filbert Steps. You can see the Bay Bridge and Treasure Island. The clouds in the Bay Area were amazing all week.
We eventually made it up to Coit Tower and got tickets to climb the 13 stories to the top of the tower where there is a stunning 360 degree view of the city. (Daniel Pink has a video where he says the five things to always do in a foreign city is ride public transportation, go to a grocery store, read a local newspaper, go to McDonald’s, and see the view from the highest point. Of those things, I think the view from above is my favorite. This trip, I didn’t go to McDonald’s but we did go to In-N-Out, and I picked up the UC Berkeley newspaper, so I think I did check all these boxes.)
Coit Tower seen from the base.
View from the top of Coit Tower. You can just make out the Golden Gate Bridge in the distance.
The other special thing about Coit Tower is that the walls are lined with murals which were commissioned as part of FDR’s Public Works of Art Program in the 1930s. They are striking in that they depict scenes of ordinary life across a wide spectrum of experiences.
This is my favorite – it’s called Library. I love how the real window is incorporated into the picture.
After enjoying the view, we came back down, all 400 some steps back to Embarcadero street. Our ferry back to Richmond was at 4:30p, so on the way back to the pier, we stopped at the Ferry Building. There were all manner of food vendors there and the bustling activity was fun to see. The Husband got a coffee (charcoal latte, whatever that is – it certainly looked intriguing) from Red Bay Coffee, and I got aguas frescas from Cholita Linda for me and the two kids who were with us. (Again, man to man defense – my brother and sister-in-law were with the other kids). I had a strawberry lime agua frescas, the 12 year old had the lime and the 4 year old had the mango. We actually were looking for boba, but there were – surprisingly – no boba places in the Ferry Building. Nonetheless the aguas frescas were delicious. I think aside from boba tea, agua fresca is my favorite special drink.
Coit Tower from the top of the Filbert Steps.
When the Ferry came, we took the Ferry back to Richmond and headed back to my brother’s place in Berkeley. We had leftovers for dinner while the kids played on screens. We finally let the 12 year old have Roblox and she spent a lot of the trip playing that with her cousin. My mother had brought from Los Angeles zongzi (Taiwanese sticky rice, wrapped in bamboo) and tamales, both homemade – the zongzi by her friend, the tamales by a friend of a lady with whom she works. So we steamed the zonzi and tamales, cut up some vegetables to eat on the side, and called it dinner. (I will say, the carrots and baby tomatoes in Berkeley were amazing!) Zongzi are one of my favorite Taiwanese foods, but I can’t get them in Maryland so it’s always a treat to have them. After dinner, we went back to our apartment and went to bed since we were all still slightly jet-lagged. I think we were all asleep by 9:30pm, which never happens for me. But we were all in the same one bedroom apartment, with the 12 year old sleeping in the common area, so there was really no place for me to sit up with the lights on once the kids were all in bed. All in all, it was a nice first few days in the Bay Area.
This day featured one of the things I was most looking forward to- a food tour!
We opted for the Hungry Birds food tours, based on recommendations on the internet. I like going on guided tours, and I thought that a tour where we got to eat periodically might be a good one for the kids.
The tour wasn’t until noon, so after breakfast (coldcuts, cheese, bread and leftover noodles) we decided to first walk down to the floating flower market. Along the way we passed this fun sculpture on the side of a building:
And more buildings with detailed architectural features, like these statues on the side of this building:
And these rows and rows of shutters:
On our canal tour, the guide said that the City of Amsterdam is asking people who have these shutters to put them back on their houses for the more historic look.
This alley of plants:
The floating market itself was quite crowded. The stalls in the market are on boats floating on the canal, though I didn’t realize that until I took a step back too look at them; when walking through the market, the stores just look like open stalls lining the street. We didn’t linger, but it made for a nice stroll to see the colourful flowers and bins of bulbs.
These are actually wooden tulips.
That was kind of the extent of the tulips that we saw. Everyone seems to be shocked that we didn’t go see the tulip fields, even though we were in Amsterdam at the start of tulip season. The fields are outside of Amsterdam and by all accounts very crowded. I don’t love going to super crowded places – I always feel like I can’t get a good view of the attractions, and that the lines move too slowly to be enjoyable while at the same time the crowds push one along so one can’t savor things at one’s own pace. Perhaps if we return to the Netherlands during tulip season, I might book a tour to see the tulips – something a little more controlled.
After we wandered through the floating flower market, we headed to the meeting spot for our food tour. The food tour was in the Pijp district of town, and area that has a more urban vibe than the flower market’s historic canals and leaning houses. When out tour guides arrived, they brought the first tasty bite of the food tour: cookies from Van Stepele.
The story behind these viral cookies is that the person who started the bakery wanted to create one perfect cookie, so people wouldn’t have to choose. The guide said the line is usually around the block for the cookies but since there is only one cookie, it moves really fast.
Next stop: Surinamese sandwiches and fried plantains from Tjin’s. This part of the food tour delved into the history of the Dutch and the different cultural influences to be found in Amsterdam. I wasn’t familiar with Suriname at all, save for a reference to it in the musical Candide. (It’s a little shameful how much of my knowledge of history comes primarily from opera and musicals.) Suriname is a small country in South America which was colonized by, among other nations, the Dutch. Slaves from Africa and Asia were brought there and it has a wide mix of cultural influences. When Suriname gained it independence from the Dutch in the 1970s, many Surinamese people came to the Netherlands to maintain their Dutch citizenship. The sandwiches we had from Tjin’s Toko were spicy and flavorful – they featured a curried mash of potatoes and chicken on a bun with some home made hot sauce. We also had some fried plantains on the side.
The next stop was a FEBO automat. I’d never been to an automat before and at first I was a little dubious at the idea of a hot vending machine. The croquettes , however, turned out to be crunchy and tasty. I can absolutely see how they come to be a late night hot spot. The kids had fun putting the coins in an opening the door to retrieve their food.
Soooo many choices!
After the automat came my favorite spot of the tour: herring! We stopped at a fish stand and had a very classic Dutch snack- brined herring – along with some fried cod. The options for herring was to have it cut up into little pieces, or to have it all in one piece which you would eat by holding it over your mouth by the tail. Of course we opted for the “hold the fish by the tail” option.
Classic serving with pickles and diced onions.
Here comes the fish….
His look is skeptical, but he ended up loving it.
Baby loves fish!
I don’t seem to have pictures of the Husband with the herring, but he did also eat it, though he said he preferred the fried cod.
Continuing on, we had cookies and coffee from Brood, a bakery with a mission to bring their stores worldwide, particularly to developing nations, as a way to contribute jobs and money to their economies. Then we wandered through Sarphatipark, an expanse of green space in De Pijp area. This would become one of the kids’ favorite places in Amsterdam because they had this really cool adventure playground, with a zipline and more challenging play structures.
After the park, we wandered through Albert Cuyp Market, an outdoor market that started as an informal collection of vendors and carts selling their wares, but which soon became so popular and chaotic that in 1905, the city government made it an official market. They have all sorts of vendors; when we walked through, in addition to vegetables and fish and cheese and snacks, I saw booths selling clothing, fabric, and various house hold items.
The food tour wandered the market, and stopped at a couple stalls of classic Dutch treats. First Stop, Poffertijes, the little Dutch pancakes. We really enjoyed watching this machine squirt batter into the hot molds and then seeing the man at the counter flip the poffertijes over at lightning speed. The pancakes are then put on a plate, layered with butter and a sprinkled with powdered sugar. They were very tasty and mostly a vehicle for melted butter.
The silver machine squeezes batter into the heated molds and then the guy flips them when it is time.
Serious search for butter.
Dutch Licorice, which comes in all sorts of flavors and shapes, including some shapes not suitable for children. I liked the salty licorice the best, but there was a peanut butter one that I also really enjoyed.
Just a small smattering of the licorice that was available at this stall.
Stroopwafel, that combination of cookie and caramel. This stall – Rudi’s – claims to use the “original” stroopwaffel recipe. Their stroopwaffels were delicate and gooey, very different from the store bought variation. The other claim to fame is that this stall is run by Benedict Cumberbatch.
Moonlighting, in case the acting thing doesn’t work out.
All the ooey goodness!
Our final stop was at a brown cafe, one of the casual cozy bars where people in Amsterdam go to have a drink, grab a bit of simple food, catch up with friends, and just hang out and wile away the time. The brown cafe we went to on our tour has been around since 1877, with the building being even older than that.
How cozy does that look!
Our tour group huddled together at the bar and at a table near the bar and we chatted about what foods we liked and what we wanted to try again. The kids had Cokes, I had a mint tea, and the Husband had a koopstoje, which involved drinking an practically overflowing glass of Dutch juniper gin, with one’s hands behind one’s back, and then chasing it down with a beer.
Drinking like the Dutch!
Even though the tour was supposed to end at 4pm, we were at the bar chatting until 4:30pm. Afterwards, our guide walked us back to the Albert Cuyp market, since that was an easy landmark and we all went our separate ways. The kids wanted to go back to the playground at the Sarphatipark, so we headed there, though the 3 year old fell asleep on the way and we had to carry her for a bit. I settled onto a bench with her asleep on me while the two older kids plyaed at the playground. We had promised them ice cream, but they were so busy playing, that we ended up skipping that.
Zipline!
I love this playground so much!
Baby was tired and missed the playground. Sad Panda.
For dinner we decided to get dinner at an Indonesian place that the food tour organizers had recommended. One of the things I really wanted to try while in Amsterdam was a rice table, or rijstaffel, which is a meal with many small dishes served with rice. We ordered both the regular and the vegetarian rijstaffel and were presented with many tiny dishes of a wide variety of food. There was chicken in coconut sauce, chicken in peanut sauce, tempeh in coconut sauce and tofu in peanut sauce, green beans cooked in coconut milk, stews, salads, fried rice… I’m sure there was even more. It was so much fun to try all the different varieties of flavors.
Also, I was really tickled by these vats of chili sauce in the back of the restaurants. Imagine going through that much chili sauce!
so much spiciness!
Once we were done dinner, we took the tram back to our Airbnb and had some tv time (for the kids) and reading time (for the grown ups) until we went to bed around 9pm, though the kids didn’t really sleep until closer to 10pm.
What a fun day it was. The kids loved the food tour and the day was relatively meltdown free until dinner then there was some whining and general tiredness. Step count for the day: 17, 634/ 6.6 miles. And I only had to carry the three year old for less than a mile of it!
The distinctive rooftops of Amsterdam. Not even sure where this is, but I love the variety all next to each other.
Days 2 and 3 in Amsterdam were very much family days with my Sister in law and her family, so I’m combining them into one post.
Waking up on Saturday was tough because of the time change. I think everyone slept til about 10:30am or so. Except the Husband. He likes to go find coffee in the morning, when we travel so I think he was out of the house by 8:30 or 9am. We soon discovered that Amsterdam is not a city that wakes up early and he was hard-pressed to find coffee before 9am on a weekend unless it was at a Starbucks.
For breakfast, the Husband had gone to Jumbo, the grocery store around the corner, and came back with some cold cuts and cheese and fruit, which we ate with the sourdough bread that we had bought the day before from Levain et Le Vin. The bread was sooooo good! Tangy and with a texture that was soft yet chewy. One of the cold cuts that the Husband brought back was Ossenwort, a raw sausage… kind of like a tartare. I liked it, but I think the kids were a little leery. I think just buying food from the regular grocery store is one of my favorite things to do while on vacation – I love seeing what is on the shelves and what people eat.
No kitchen at the Airbnb, but there was a kettle for hot water, which is very important. And that bread was delicious.
Breakfast: Ossenwort, cheese (not sure what kind, though I did eventually learned that belegen means aged), sourdough bread and fruit.
After breakfast and some lazing around, we set off to meet my Sister in law and her family for lunch. We decided to walk to the restaurant since it was only 15 minutes away. Halfway there, my SIL came zooming by on her bike. She had dropped her kids at the restaurant (with my brother in law) and came back to see if our kids wanted a ride. The six year old and the three year old got into her bakfiets (Eurpoean cargo bike) and she rode off them. I was a little surprised that there were no seatbelts or anything in the bakfiets – the kids just sat in the front cargo box. But that might just be my overcautious American brain.
We met up at a pancake place shaped like a carousel. Pancakes are on all the lists of Dutch foods to try- to my mind Dutch pancakes lean more toward crepes than the big fluffy American pancakes I’m used to. The kids ordered pancakes, the Husband had poffertjes (tiny pancakes) and I had a waffle. I also had mint tea, which would turn out to be one of my favorite drinks in the Netherlands- so simple, just fresh mint in hot water, served with a cookie and a bit of honey on the side.
The 3.5 year old and her pancake. Let’s be honest – she mostly just ate the whipped cream directly out of the cup.
My waffle with strawberries.
After lunch my SIL and her family headed back to their house, but I was eager to explore so we said we would walk/ take the tram to their place. It was a drizzly day, but I still liked walking and getting a sense of the city. We walked to Leidseplein, a very popular square that had these cute gecko sculptures and also a very ornate looking theatre:
Internationaal Theater Amsterdam. I love looking at theatres, even from the outside.
From Leidseplein we took the tram three stops up and got off next to the Vondelpark, and from there we walked across the park to m SIL’s place. On the way to the park, we passed this sculpture garden:
The Emmaplein. I looked it up later and these sculptures are by members of a post War Dutch sculpture collective called Group D’Adam. So cool to have a sculpture garden that one can randomly stumble upon.
Drizzly park landscapes:
Cranes in tall nests:
And then a random man with a dog offered to take our picture on this bridge. (Side note, I noticed in the park that almost all the dogs were off leash. This is certainly different from the parks around me at home. But my Brother In Law made a comment that the Dutch love to have order and rules, but they never think the rules apply to themselves – so it’s kind of ordered chaos in a way.) I thought the man with the dog was going to take our picture from one end of the bridge, but he actually went to stand somewhat precariously among the greenery of the banks of the stream down below the bridge.
not the best picture, but I will always remember the man who took it.
And of course a canal:
At my sister in law’s house, we ordered Indonesian food and the kids watched a movie. The food was … fine. I heard that Indonesian food was big in Amsterdam, because of the Dutch’s history in The East Indies. This food was a lot like Chinese food and a bit too saucy for my taste. Though the noodles were pretty good. Around 7pm, we headed back to our AirBnb where we watched some TV (I think it might have been RuPaul’s Drag Race or Friends – it seems that the grown up shows have subtitles and the kids shows were dubbed, so the kids watched a lot of Friends and reality tv while in Amsterdam. Along with some SpongeBob and The Thundermans which they didn’t mind watching in Dutch because they already had seen the episodes.) We tried to get the kids in bed around 10pm, but the kids mostly tossed and turned until finally falling asleep around midnight.
Sunday morning we woke up around 9:30am, and had breakfast – more bread, cold cuts, and fruit. Then we headed out for the day’s adventures. We stopped at a coffee shop around the corner called Uncommon. The Husband said the coffee was very good, and actually got coffee there several times during the week. I had a matcha latte, which I sipped as we went to meet our boat for our canal tour- the one that we had rescheduled from Friday when we missed it. This time, we knew where we were going, and showed up right on time to the boat.
The first thing I liked about the canal tour was that they had snacks! Windmill cookies, little sausages, cheese, crackers, Dutch licorice and of course Heineken. Apparently licorice is a huge thing in the Netherlands, coming in all sorts of flavors. The licorice on the boat was salty licorice, and I rather liked it.
I highly recommend a canal tour in Amsterdam- it gives one a view of the cities and architecture that’s different from just walking around. I chose this tour group (Captain Jack’s) because it had an open top boat; a lot of the other tours had glass covered boats and I imagine the view is not as good. Our boat captain was a retired business professor from Utrecht. He told lots of funny stories and historical tidbits. He talked a lot about how much each building cost or who had the money to buy a building- an expected perspective from a business professor.
Family portrait on the boat.
The architecture of Amsterdam is such a great way to learn about the city. We learned that one reason the houses are so narrow is that properties were taxed on their width. There are several super narrow houses in Amsterdam, including this one that we saw:
We also saw rows and rows of houseboats, which seems like it’s own fascinating subculture.
All different shapes and sizes and materials. Also interesting that some of them have top levels that come apart so they can fit under bridges.
And tug boats pulling houseboats.
I think this is actually the Houseboat Museum.
And the opera house, which is always fun for me to see.
We also floated passed the Anne Frank House. We did not visit the Anne Frank House on this trip; while I do think it’s an important museum to see, I wanted to wait until the kids could go through it with the patience and respect that the place deserves. Right now the two little are very eager to express their feeling loudly when they get bored and I didn’t think that would be appropriate or fair towards the other people who might have been at the Anne Frank House. So we will save it for next trip.
Many of the houses have distinctive features on the outside. My favorite, which I didn’t get a picture of was one house that had a statue of a stork above the door- it was (and I think still is) a midwife’s location. This one has a statue of St. George and the Dragon.
Just any old house with a knight and dragon hanging out in front… Like you do.
Another interesting aspect of the houses along the canals is some of them are leaning. They were originally built on wooden poles and over years, the poles sink, or rot, or weaken, causing one side of the house to sink. Fascinating. But also a little worrisome, I would imagine.
The boat tour took about two hours and afterwards we met up with my sister in law and her family. We picked up some sandwiches and headed to to Vondelpark for the rest of the afternoon There the kids chased pigeons (seems to be a universal pastime) and played on the playground. In addition to swings and climbing structures the park had a little wooded area where the kids could play with sticks and build wood forts. The weather was beautiful and it was nice to be outside after two days of drizzly wet weather.
Around 4pm, we headed to a bar for happy hour snacks, which also sort of passed for dinner. We had a variety of typical happy hour/bar food: French fries, cheese and meat plate, bitteballen (fried croquettes with meat filling.) After a while, my sister in law and her family headed home and we headed back to our Airbnb. It was only about 5:30p at the time, so we decided to stop for ice cream at a cute shop we had seen during our wanders. The shop had cones with various characters on them. The six year old went first and he, unsurprisingly, picked a Paw Patrol cone. The lady behind the counter started scooping ice cream.
So many choices!
All of a sudden, the lights went dim, disco lights started flashing, bubbles streamed through the air, and the Paw Patrol theme started playing. And at the end, there was a big burst of foam to cap it all off. It was an epic delightful surprise.
Of course after that display, we all had to get character cones. The 3.5 year old choose a unicorn, the 11 year old chose Darth Vadar, I chose Slimer from Ghostbusters and the Husband chose Ghostbusters too. We sat outside and enjoyed our ice cream while watching the lights and bubbles and foam display for each customer.
When we had finished our cones, we took a long meandering way home. We came across this snake-shaped play structure next to a garden and spent about half an hour playing there.
And on the way home we saw more canals, made even more beautiful in the light of the almost setting sun:
We arrived home around 6:30p, and put on the first Ice Age movie and snuggled down for a family movie night. Everyone was in bed by 9:30pm, but the six year old tossed and turned and stayed awake for another hour. Our Airbnb was one big room, so it wasn’t as if we could put the kids to bed and then stay up ourselves, so all week we actually went to bed the same time as the kids most nights. On day 3 we were still fighting jetlag, but we told the kids that even though they weren’t sleepy we were going to turn out the lights and stay in bed. And eventually they did fall asleep.
Well that was our first weekend in Amsterdam. It was a combination of family and touristy stuff, which was a nice pace for the first few days. The week to come, my sister in law’s family would be busy with school and life so we wouldn’t see them very much so I’m glad they made time for us on the weekend.
More adventures to come. Including, on Day 4… a food tour!
One thing about camping with two small kid and no other adult is that when one kid wakes up at 6:30am and needs to use the restroom, you have to wake up the other kid as well because you can’t very well leave a sleeping toddler in a tent by themself. I know I should just instruct the five year old in the fine art of peeing in the woods- that would be the simplest solution. Yet, the mechanics of peeing while standing up still baffle me a little and everytime we try, pee goes all over. This instruction might be something I assign to the Husband.
At any rate early morning bathroom call was how the day began. A little earlier than I had wanted since the sleep the night before had been not terribly restful, as is typical for the first night of camping. But bladder and sunlight and a natural early riser meant that at 6:30am there was a bathroom run. And then we were up for the day.
We came back from the bathroom and I made everyone oatmeal from the musli that I had made while looking over trail maps to decide what I thought might be fun to do with the kids.
After breakfast we walked along a trail next to our campground that led to tbe campstore – I guess one could call it hiking, but it seemed more like a relaxes nature stroll. The path we took was part of the Appalachian Trail, which was kind of a cool thought- that we could get on this trail and walk south to Georgia or North to Maine. This stretch was pretty unremarkable, a path through the woods though we did see rocks and sticks and acorn, which the baby demanded that I put in my pocket to take home. And there was a millipede which the kids found fascinating. The first of many we would see.
Trail explorers along the Appalachian Trail.
We got to the campstore just as the misty rain became a downpour. In a bit of unfortunate oversight, I had left our hats, umbrellas and rain gear back at the camp site, so we just waited in the covered alleyway outside the campstore for the storm to pass. I felt ill equipped for this kind of waiting it out, but I did have a sack full of trail mix, water, and, in a bit of luck, a deck of BrainQuest cards. This last kept the kids occupied for a little bit, but then they spent the rest of the time running back and forth.
Eventually, after about an hour, the downpour lightened to a mist and we walked back to the campsite, and had lunch. To keep the kids occupied while I made lunch, I set up the hammock for them, including the rain fly in case it were to rain again. They always have great fun with the hammock- fun for swinging but also fun for lazing around.
After lunch was eaten and cleaned up, I decided to join them in the hammock to see if the baby would take a nap. Well, we all ended up asleep. I think that’s one of the lovely things about camping- the sleepless, restless first night is always offset by a lovely afternoon nap. I woke up about an hour later to the sound of rain tapping against the rain fly. Somewhere in the back of my head I remembered that I had left the windows to the car open in an effort to air the car out. This thought kept wafting into my groggy nap brain, but it was so hard to pull myself out of the gentle lull of a swinging hammock full of warm child snuggles!
nap in hammock on a rainy afternoon.
In a fit of superhuman strength I untangled myself from the kids, went to shut the car windows and returned to the hammock. I spent another half hour reading The Splendid and the Vile among a tangle of children’s limbs until they woke up and reminded me of my promise to buy firewood and make a fire that evening. We got into the car and headed back to the camp store. After getting two bundles of wood, i decided there was still enough time in the day to sneak in a quick hike, so I drove us to the trailhead for Blackrock summit.
My guidebook said this was an easy hike with a rocky scramble to a great view. The baby has never met a rocky scramble that she didn’t like, so it sounded perfect. Plus the hike was only a mile long so it was just the right length for a late afternoon adventure.
The baby complained most of the way up the trail, (“I’m tired,” “My tummy hurts!”) but the moment she saw the rocky scramble at the top, she was happily off like a shot. The summit looks like a pile of construction rubble debris, but the placard at the trail head said that it was actually a rock shelf at the bottom of the ocean, when this area was an ocean. The ocean receded and eventually the rock shelf collapsed.
rocky scramble
I know everyone is always amazed by their children, but I am truly in awe of how well the baby can climb- she looks at the situation, and plots where her toes and fingers can go and how to wedge her foot in just so to get leverage. She lifts with her legs and isn’t afraid to blindly drop to a lower level. It is so much fun to watch.
at the bottomat the top
After our hike we went back to the campsite and had dinner and a little fire. I have become okay at making a fire, but I’m always surprised when it does work. My method mostly consists of making fire starters from newspaper and dryer lint and wood shavings. (the Husband, who does the laundry, saves dryer lint all year in a Ziploc bag so that I can have it for when I go camping). The weather had been so wet and rainy, so I didn’t really have any good twigs and branches to use for kindling. Surprisingly the fire still managed to catch rather quickly. I wanted to save the marshmallows and s’mores for when the ten year old and the Husband arrived the next day, so we just enjoyed the flickering flames
The fire eventually died down, I cleaned up dinner, we brushed our teeth, got into pjs, read the rest of The Enormous Crocodile, and then went to bed. It was only about 9:45p when everyone settled down to sleep, which was late for the kids but early for me. Clearly being in the woods without internet does wonders for my ability to go to bed early. I did stay up another half and hour to read and journal, but even still I was asleep much earlier than usual.
When I was planning this trip, I was a little nervous when I saw the rain in the forecast, but looking back, it didn’t end up being a big deal. Luckily we have good gear so we all stayed dry and the rain was pretty sporadic- two 90 minute showers. The rest of the day was mild and not so hot. I think the nice thing about camping is that I feel like I’m either having leisure time (book and hammock or hike) or doing essential things (feeding kids); there isn’t empty time or puttering time or aimless time. Having my time be black and white like that – relax with purpose or survival – takes away a lot of the restlessness I can feel when there are a billion small tasks to be done. While camping, I don’t have to think about activity registration or paying the bills or making social plans, or fixing that thing that needs to fixed (or thinking about fixing it…)… because I can’t tick those things off my to do list right then. I can think and plan, but the number of things that are actually achievable is actually quite limited.
Even though the time is filled and every tasks has many more steps than at home, somehow, I don’t feel busy. Having to unpack the camp stove for every meal, having to wash all the dishes right away, and then haul the dirty water to the bath house, having to put away all the food completely for fear of bears – that doesn’t feel busy to me. It is just essential. I think busy comes from feeling like there is soooo much to do that I am just going from one task to another, and it will never get done. Yet when camping there is just two things – enjoy being outside and feed everyone (Okay, there is also bathroom call and brush teeth, I suppose) – it doesn’t feel like I won’t get things done. Because of course we will eat. And then of course we will relax or go for a hike.
I once went camping with a friend and in the middle of one afternoon, while I was sitting reading a book, she came over and said to me, “It’s amazing how there is really nothing to do here.” And I thought, “Yes, isn’t that the beauty of it?”
We just got back from a camping trip to Shenandoah National Park. Originally we were all going to go for three nights, but then at the last minute the Husband wanted to work. The ten year old declared that she wasn’t going if daddy wasn’t going… so I said fine. Camping with two young kids is a lot easier than camping with two young kids and one grumpy kid.
Camping is never as simple as I want it to be. In my head, camping is an exercise in acetic living- nature, shelter and food. But the simplicity of nature, shelter, and food is certainly complicated for me to pull off- it requires lists and supplies and plans and gear. Maybe if I were the type of person who camped every weekend, prepping for a camping trip would be down to a very efficient routine. But as it is, I feel like every time I go, I’m figuring things out again.
Take food, for example- Running out of food while camping is one of my worst fears. So I draw up a detailed meal plan and make a list of snacks to bring. I juxtapose the fun of cooking over the campfire with the ease of just making curry ramen on the camp stove. I try to figure out what is simple but highly flavorful. Also what can pack efficiently. I think of snacks that are nutritionally dense and tasty, but hopefully not so tasty that the kids blow through it all in one day. Also fun treats that can be used to bribe the kids when they just can’t anymore while hiking.
Then I spent two and a half hours grocery shopping the night before I was to leave. Much of the time I was having an internal debate with myself as to whether or not something would be good to bring camping. There is a balance I’m still trying to find between camping being an excuse to buy all the fun snack food and also realizing that being out in the woods and being active actually requires healthy, dense food choices. I was at Trader Joe’s and I can’t tell you how many times the dill pickle peanuts went into my cart, then back on the shelf, than into my cart. (spoiler: I did take end up buying them).
Then after I came home, I spent a few hours prepping said food- parboil potatoes, making trail mix and meusli and energy balls. Cutting up apples so that I won’t have to deal with the cores at the camp ground. Filling Ziploc bags full of cut and marinated veggies. Freezing meats and water jugs to help keep things in the cooler cold.
Part of me thinks that camp food should not require so much prep. That there should be a simple equation of fire + food+ eating in the open air = tasty meal. But, no… for me, it seems like it takes a lot of prep for easy camping meals. Unless, of course, one does the freeze dried backpacker meals. I’ve done those before and while I think they’re fine, it wasn’t really my favorite thing. (Although I do find the idea of them so fascinating that I spent thirty minutes in REI perusing the freeze dried meal aisle. Everything promised to be so tasty and filling. If it were really so easy to have such varied meals, we should all just be eating dehydrated meals! Ah those packets of gastronomical mystery in their opaque foil pouches!)
At any rate, my goal had been to leave by noon and we left at 3:30pm. (Well, we pulled out of the driveway at 3pm, but my watch had chosen to die on me at 2:30p that day so we made an emergency Target run.) It took four hours to pull all the camping gear out, pull together everything on my camping checklist and pack all the gear, clothes, and food into the car. I’m writing this here for next time, when I wonder how long it will take me to pack the car for camping… let the record show- 4 hours. <gavel strike> (I did pack the clothes the night before, so if I were starting from scratch, I would say 5 hours).
The 3 hour drive itself was fine save for the two kids in the back who fought constantly, about who knows what. From what I could decipher through the screaming and whining and tears, it involved grapes being thrown, and sunglasses being stolen and possession of the Vox books. (Vox books are these amazing books with an audio book feature built in so the kid can follow along. Kind of like those books when I was growing up that came with a cassette tape and there was a chime when it was time to turn the page.) The only time they were quiet was when I agreed to play two episodes of Laurie Berkner’s Song and Story Kitchen. Steep price to pay, perhaps. Otherwise we listened to the audiobook of Roald Dahl’s The BFG and the perennial favorite, Hamilton.
The kid’s squabbling was starting to really get to me, when I turned onto route… and I could see Shenandoah mountain- silhouetted against the late afternoon sky. Then I started to get so excited that I was going to get to spend the next couple of days in those mountains.
It was six thirty by the time we pulled up to the camp site, and it took another hour and a half to set ip the tent and sleeping arrangements. (Let the record show for future me: it takes 90 minutes for you to set up camp by yourself. <gavel strike>). The two kids were not entirely helpful- at one point the baby got into the toiletries box and I looked up to see half a container of floss unspooled across our camp site. I guess in truth there is very little a 5 year old and a 2.5 year old can do to help in putting up a tent, though they were eager to help by taking things randomly out of the car, and they did fight for the chance to hammer in the stakes for the tent. Some day they maybe can put up the whole tent by themselves
By the time the tent was up and staked, I abandoned my original meal plan to have the leftover ground turkey “chili” heated up and eaten with corn chips. Chili and corn chips had seemed a simple meal when I put it on the meal chart, but at 8:30pm it was not simple enough and I just fed the kids Triscuits, summer sausage, cheese, and apples for dinner- all eaten off the cutting board because I couldn’t even with plates by that point. Of course deviating from my meal plan caused a low level panic in my mind at my carefully crafted and rationed meal plan being blown to bits…
KISS supper.
Then we were got out flashlights and headlamps for one last trip to the bathhouse to brush teeth and go to the bathroom. Back to the tent to change into pjs and then snuggled into our sleeping bags by 9:45p, reading another Dahl book, The Enormous Crocodile, by the light of the camp lantern before falling asleep.
So that was the first day. A little chaotic, a little exasperating, but now we were there.
Now that I’m peering into summer, no better time to finish my Spring Break recap. Hah! It’a little getaway we took back before rehearsals even began…
Immediately after my brother and his family visited for their spring break, was the ten year old’s own spring break. I don’t think I quite appreciated how flexible one could be with vacation before the oldest started school. Now most of our vacations have to be planned around school holidays. I guess they don’t have to be, but too many missed days of school and we get the administrative side eye. We did pull the ten year old from school the Friday before Spring break so that we could pack in a little trip before I started work the next week.
There is a program that gives every fourth grader in America a free National Parks Pass for a year. I had signed the ten year old up for last September, but I’m a little abashed to admit that we have yet to take advantage of it. It expires in August, so I thought we should plan some trips around visiting National Parks. I had managed to get a couple days off work for the first half of the ten year old’s Spring Break, so the Husband found a nice place on Airbnb next to the Smoky Mountains and off we went.
Since my parents were coming with us, we rented a minivan to drive down. I have long resisted a mini van, but seeing as how I’m driving a nineteen year old car, we have started to think as to whether a van might indeed be an option for our next car. The verdict – definitely a more comfortable ride for everyone and the amount of space for luggage is pretty great. But…. the Husband declared we are not getting a mini van until the kids are out of their “must push the buttons” phase, given the arguments and tears that ensued over who got to push the button to close the sliding doors, not to mention the number of times that one of the kids managed to, in their eagerness to push buttons, closed a door on someone trying to get in the van. Plus my parking lot at work is tiny.
At any rate, back to our trip. We left at 7am – the Husband had wanted to leave at 6am, but that didn’t happen. As is our road trip tradition, we stopped at McDonalds for breakfast. We didn’t make many stops – just one for lunch and once for gas, and arrived at our place around 5:30pm. We were greeted by a cozy yet spacious cabin in the mountains with a stunning view of the Smokies as well as a hot tub.
It was actually quite cold when we got to our Airbnb. In fact, there were snow flurries that afternoon. But even the snow couldn’t hide what a great view we had from the back deck of the cabin:
view from the back deck
We settled in that evening – the kids were super excited to explore a new dwelling and there was even a pool table for them to try out. Since it was Friday night, we had our pizza and movie night – picking up pizza from Pizza Hut and streaming Seeing Red – which was a pretty awesome movie. The film is set in Toronto and my parents had lived there when they were newly arrived in Canada, so that was one things that made the movie particularly fun.
The next day promised rain, so we decided to visit the Tuckalechee Caverns, which were just down the road. The caverns were breathtaking and I loved seeing all the different shapes and sizes of rock formations, and hearing the guide explaining what causes rocks to form one way as opposed to another. It was also really amazing how they had set up all these lights in the caverns so people could really see the different formations. At one point, though, the guide turned out the light so we could see how absolutely dark it was in the caverns. Being plunge into darkness made me think of the two boys – one just six years old – who discovered the caverns – back in a time when there weren’t the powerful flashlights that we have today. What an adventure it must have been for those two kids! Scary, too, I bet. One of those boys who discovered the caverns still owns the caverns to this day. When I walked in to buy our tickets, the man behind the counter asked where I was from. I told him and then I asked whether he was from the area.
“Yes I am,” he said. “Born here. In fact, by grandpa was one of the boys who discovered the caverns.” And he pointed with his thumb to an elderly man sitting behind the fudge counter a few feet over. A family business.
This was one of my favorite formations – I love the way the water and sediment flowed to, over millions of years, create a rock that almost looks like a rippling piece of fabric.
There was also a waterfall and what was known as the “beach” where the water was so clean from being filtered through all the rock and sediment from the surface that one could drink it. In fact, the guide told us, locals often come and pay the owner of the caverns so that they can fill their water jugs from the water in the caverns.
Waterfall.
Stalactites and Stalagmites.
After returning from the caverns, the Husband and I went to the next town over to buys some groceries and to just sit for a while in a coffee shop. It was nice to get away for a little while. After dinner that night, we tried enjoyed a stunning sunset and then, while the kids tried to figure out how to play pool, the Husband and I tried out the hot tub… it was nice, but I don’t know that hot tubs are really my things. Something about sitting around in hot water seems so passive. Which, I guess might be the point of the hot tub as a relaxing activity.
Smoky Mountain Sunset.
The next day we all went on a hike. The hike we had wanted to go on proved to have no parking at the trailhead, so we drove on and found another hike. There are many to be had in the Smoky Mountains. Oh also, ironically, even though we were very eager to use our park pass and that was the whole reason we picked Smoky Mountain National Park in the first place… turns out you don’t need to pay to get in to the park. At any rate, the hike that we went on, passed a cemetery, with some very interesting names to be found, also the heartbreak of infant mortality.
Also… nine children!
But after the cemetery, we admittedly trudged on feeling a little uninspired by the trail we picked. It was mostly just trees and shrubs and very little shade or pretty views. I mean trees and shrubs are all fine and well, but the original hike we had wanted to go on promised the opportunity to venture behind a waterfall. So this trail of just trees and shrubs seemed honestly kind of a let down. But presently we ran into someone hiking the opposite direction. He mentioned something about how coming back was easier than getting there.
“How far did you go?” we asked.
“I went all the way to the waterfall,” he said.
A waterfall! Well, that was a bit of motivation to keep going. So we continued on. We stopped at a flat rock next to the stream to eat our packed lunch- sandwiches, fruit, cucumbers, carrots, and cookies. And then after clambering down a rocky path….
We spent the next little while climbing over rocks and traversing logs, and half heartedly trying to not get too wet.
On the way back, the baby got a little fussy.. she had hiked quite a while, so it was to be expected. I had forgotten to bring the baby carrier in my backpack. (This carrier, by the way, which I love because it packs up super small and light yet can still be used for my 30 lb toddler. It’s not the most comfortable for hours and hours, but it’s perfect to throw in the backpack for those moment when she’s walked two miles and is ready to quit.). So, finding myself without a carrier, I decided to improvise. I had the Jane Eyre wrap that my friend had given me, so I tied the ends together and threw the loop over one shoulder to make an sling and it worked better than I had thought.
After that hikes, we came back to our airbnb and there was soup waiting for us in the slow cooker. We had stopped to pick up some garlic bread- the freezer kind. Actually two different freezer kinds so we could have a taste test. After dinner, the Husband and I tried out the hot tub while the kids tried to figure out how to play pool.
The next day we went in the opposite directions toward the “quiet side” of the Smokies to visit Cade’s Cove, which is a valley amidst the Smokies that is full of hiking trails and the remnants of historic European settlements. There is an eleven mile loop that you can drive that takes you to these various buildings and trails. We started to hike the Trail to Abrams Falls, but the entire loop was five miles and, hiking with little kids, one kind of has to go at their pace so we didn’t make it to the Falls. Even though we did not get to see Abrams Falls, we did some really fun rock scrambling and sat by the river, watching the water tumble by.
I swear this child is half mountain goat.
A boy and his hiking vest!
I also loved seeing on this hike signs of spring among the bare trees of winter:
Blossom among bare limbs.
When we got back to the car, we continued driving along the Cade’s Cove loop and stopped at the Visitor’s Center. I had packed sandwiches, fruit, and chips and we tailgated in the parking lot, next to a big open field. The kids took the opportunity to stretch their legs and run across the vast expanse of grass:
Next to the Visitor’s Center was a collection of buildings from the European settlers. I always find this kind of thing fascinating, to wander historic houses and imagine what people’s lives were like and how they came to settle the land, and also about the Native Americans who came before them. I especially liked this water mill that still runs and the trough of water that was built to carry water to it, long before days of plastic and silicone waterproofing.
After the visitor’s center we continued along the Cades Cove loop, stopping to check out various historical buildings. I had bought a slim guidebook at the Visitors Center and read outloud the history of certain buildings.
Dinner that night was barbeque at a charming place called Full Service BBQ. I’m guessing it’s called Full Service because it’s located in a converted gas station. It was a pretty great little place, you can read about it below!
The next morning we piled back into the car, stopped for breakfast, and drove home. All in all it was a nice getaway. A little too short- I would have liked to have had some more time just to ait on the porch swing and breathe in the mountain air and mist, but I’m glad we packed in some good hiking adventures.
Some things that kept us entertained during the ten hour drive:
– audiobooks. We listened to The Golden Compass, Book One of His Dark Materials by Philip Pullman. It was a full cast audiobook, which I sometimes find can make for disjointed listening. I still don’t fully grasp all the theoretical aspects of Pullman’s book, but he manages to wrap it in some thrilling adventures and interesting characters, so I don’t mind not understanding everything.
– I got the kids Boogie Boards as an alternative to handing them screens for the whole trip. They seemed to like them well enough, though they were constantly dropping the pens, which was annoying. When we stopped at a restaurant on the way home, we beoight the boogie boards and played Exquisite Corpse, which was kind of funz
– drawing pictures on my iPad. I haven’t done any drawing since my drawing class last year and I really miss taking the time to think about a drawing assignment and putting it on paper. i got a pen for my iPad with the thought of exploring some digital drawing programs. So on a couple of particularly long lengths of the drive I thought I’d try my hand at drawing on the tablet. I have to say, prefer the tension and resistance that I get when using real paper, and also the imperfection of not being able to instantly erase thing. The colours seem too bold on my digital pictures.
The view from the passenger seat- dashbordRedbuds and blue skies along Highway 81
What We Ate, the Airbnb/ Spring Break
Friday: Pizza Hut and Seeing Red.
Saturday: pasta and meatballs with salad and garlic bread. Because we didn’t want to buy too many ingredients, this meal was entirely from pre-made components. We got meatballs from the meat aisle and a jar of marinara. Also had a bag of salad on the side. I thought it was a pretty easy meal to throw together.
Sunday: Mushroom Farro soup. The Airbnb had a slow cooker, so I made a soup in the morning (loosely based off this recipe) and it was ready for us when we got back from a long day of hiking. We picked up some garlic bread to pop in the oven and eat on the side and it was a pretty great meal.
Monday: Barbeque at Full Service BBQ – a BBQ place that was housed in a converted gas station. The seating was outdoors, and they had bubbles and hula hoops and chalk for the kids to play with while we waited for our food. I had the ribs with a side of braised green beans and they were really tasty. However, the most intriguing item on the menu for me was the “purple drank” which was a combination of grape and peach Kool-Aid. The ten year old ordered it; I had a sip of hers and was immediately transported back to my childhood when my brother and I would mix up large pitchers of Kool-Aid on a hot summer day, the sugary taste of the drink, like candy in a pourable form. It was simultaneously a sugar bomb and nostalgia shot.
