Days 2 and 3 in Amsterdam were very much family days with my Sister in law and her family, so I’m combining them into one post.
Waking up on Saturday was tough because of the time change. I think everyone slept til about 10:30am or so. Except the Husband. He likes to go find coffee in the morning, when we travel so I think he was out of the house by 8:30 or 9am. We soon discovered that Amsterdam is not a city that wakes up early and he was hard-pressed to find coffee before 9am on a weekend unless it was at a Starbucks.
For breakfast, the Husband had gone to Jumbo, the grocery store around the corner, and came back with some cold cuts and cheese and fruit, which we ate with the sourdough bread that we had bought the day before from Levain et Le Vin. The bread was sooooo good! Tangy and with a texture that was soft yet chewy. One of the cold cuts that the Husband brought back was Ossenwort, a raw sausage… kind of like a tartare. I liked it, but I think the kids were a little leery. I think just buying food from the regular grocery store is one of my favorite things to do while on vacation – I love seeing what is on the shelves and what people eat.
After breakfast and some lazing around, we set off to meet my Sister in law and her family for lunch. We decided to walk to the restaurant since it was only 15 minutes away. Halfway there, my SIL came zooming by on her bike. She had dropped her kids at the restaurant (with my brother in law) and came back to see if our kids wanted a ride. The six year old and the three year old got into her bakfiets (Eurpoean cargo bike) and she rode off them. I was a little surprised that there were no seatbelts or anything in the bakfiets – the kids just sat in the front cargo box. But that might just be my overcautious American brain.
We met up at a pancake place shaped like a carousel. Pancakes are on all the lists of Dutch foods to try- to my mind Dutch pancakes lean more toward crepes than the big fluffy American pancakes I’m used to. The kids ordered pancakes, the Husband had poffertjes (tiny pancakes) and I had a waffle. I also had mint tea, which would turn out to be one of my favorite drinks in the Netherlands- so simple, just fresh mint in hot water, served with a cookie and a bit of honey on the side.
After lunch my SIL and her family headed back to their house, but I was eager to explore so we said we would walk/ take the tram to their place. It was a drizzly day, but I still liked walking and getting a sense of the city. We walked to Leidseplein, a very popular square that had these cute gecko sculptures and also a very ornate looking theatre:
From Leidseplein we took the tram three stops up and got off next to the Vondelpark, and from there we walked across the park to m SIL’s place. On the way to the park, we passed this sculpture garden:
Drizzly park landscapes:
Cranes in tall nests:
And then a random man with a dog offered to take our picture on this bridge. (Side note, I noticed in the park that almost all the dogs were off leash. This is certainly different from the parks around me at home. But my Brother In Law made a comment that the Dutch love to have order and rules, but they never think the rules apply to themselves – so it’s kind of ordered chaos in a way.) I thought the man with the dog was going to take our picture from one end of the bridge, but he actually went to stand somewhat precariously among the greenery of the banks of the stream down below the bridge.
And of course a canal:
At my sister in law’s house, we ordered Indonesian food and the kids watched a movie. The food was … fine. I heard that Indonesian food was big in Amsterdam, because of the Dutch’s history in The East Indies. This food was a lot like Chinese food and a bit too saucy for my taste. Though the noodles were pretty good. Around 7pm, we headed back to our AirBnb where we watched some TV (I think it might have been RuPaul’s Drag Race or Friends – it seems that the grown up shows have subtitles and the kids shows were dubbed, so the kids watched a lot of Friends and reality tv while in Amsterdam. Along with some SpongeBob and The Thundermans which they didn’t mind watching in Dutch because they already had seen the episodes.) We tried to get the kids in bed around 10pm, but the kids mostly tossed and turned until finally falling asleep around midnight.
Sunday morning we woke up around 9:30am, and had breakfast – more bread, cold cuts, and fruit. Then we headed out for the day’s adventures. We stopped at a coffee shop around the corner called Uncommon. The Husband said the coffee was very good, and actually got coffee there several times during the week. I had a matcha latte, which I sipped as we went to meet our boat for our canal tour- the one that we had rescheduled from Friday when we missed it. This time, we knew where we were going, and showed up right on time to the boat.
The first thing I liked about the canal tour was that they had snacks! Windmill cookies, little sausages, cheese, crackers, Dutch licorice and of course Heineken. Apparently licorice is a huge thing in the Netherlands, coming in all sorts of flavors. The licorice on the boat was salty licorice, and I rather liked it.
I highly recommend a canal tour in Amsterdam- it gives one a view of the cities and architecture that’s different from just walking around. I chose this tour group (Captain Jack’s) because it had an open top boat; a lot of the other tours had glass covered boats and I imagine the view is not as good. Our boat captain was a retired business professor from Utrecht. He told lots of funny stories and historical tidbits. He talked a lot about how much each building cost or who had the money to buy a building- an expected perspective from a business professor.
The architecture of Amsterdam is such a great way to learn about the city. We learned that one reason the houses are so narrow is that properties were taxed on their width. There are several super narrow houses in Amsterdam, including this one that we saw:
We also saw rows and rows of houseboats, which seems like it’s own fascinating subculture.
And tug boats pulling houseboats.
And the opera house, which is always fun for me to see.
We also floated passed the Anne Frank House. We did not visit the Anne Frank House on this trip; while I do think it’s an important museum to see, I wanted to wait until the kids could go through it with the patience and respect that the place deserves. Right now the two little are very eager to express their feeling loudly when they get bored and I didn’t think that would be appropriate or fair towards the other people who might have been at the Anne Frank House. So we will save it for next trip.
Many of the houses have distinctive features on the outside. My favorite, which I didn’t get a picture of was one house that had a statue of a stork above the door- it was (and I think still is) a midwife’s location. This one has a statue of St. George and the Dragon.
Another interesting aspect of the houses along the canals is some of them are leaning. They were originally built on wooden poles and over years, the poles sink, or rot, or weaken, causing one side of the house to sink. Fascinating. But also a little worrisome, I would imagine.
The boat tour took about two hours and afterwards we met up with my sister in law and her family. We picked up some sandwiches and headed to to Vondelpark for the rest of the afternoon There the kids chased pigeons (seems to be a universal pastime) and played on the playground. In addition to swings and climbing structures the park had a little wooded area where the kids could play with sticks and build wood forts. The weather was beautiful and it was nice to be outside after two days of drizzly wet weather.
Around 4pm, we headed to a bar for happy hour snacks, which also sort of passed for dinner. We had a variety of typical happy hour/bar food: French fries, cheese and meat plate, bitteballen (fried croquettes with meat filling.) After a while, my sister in law and her family headed home and we headed back to our Airbnb. It was only about 5:30p at the time, so we decided to stop for ice cream at a cute shop we had seen during our wanders. The shop had cones with various characters on them. The six year old went first and he, unsurprisingly, picked a Paw Patrol cone. The lady behind the counter started scooping ice cream.
All of a sudden, the lights went dim, disco lights started flashing, bubbles streamed through the air, and the Paw Patrol theme started playing. And at the end, there was a big burst of foam to cap it all off. It was an epic delightful surprise.
Of course after that display, we all had to get character cones. The 3.5 year old choose a unicorn, the 11 year old chose Darth Vadar, I chose Slimer from Ghostbusters and the Husband chose Ghostbusters too. We sat outside and enjoyed our ice cream while watching the lights and bubbles and foam display for each customer.
When we had finished our cones, we took a long meandering way home. We came across this snake-shaped play structure next to a garden and spent about half an hour playing there.
And on the way home we saw more canals, made even more beautiful in the light of the almost setting sun:
We arrived home around 6:30p, and put on the first Ice Age movie and snuggled down for a family movie night. Everyone was in bed by 9:30pm, but the six year old tossed and turned and stayed awake for another hour. Our Airbnb was one big room, so it wasn’t as if we could put the kids to bed and then stay up ourselves, so all week we actually went to bed the same time as the kids most nights. On day 3 we were still fighting jetlag, but we told the kids that even though they weren’t sleepy we were going to turn out the lights and stay in bed. And eventually they did fall asleep.
Well that was our first weekend in Amsterdam. It was a combination of family and touristy stuff, which was a nice pace for the first few days. The week to come, my sister in law’s family would be busy with school and life so we wouldn’t see them very much so I’m glad they made time for us on the weekend.
More adventures to come. Including, on Day 4… a food tour!